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Whenever assembling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate well-known Michelin-starred venues. However, tucked prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The little Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the owners totally shocked.

“I’m completely shocked,” states a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy texture.

The meat is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very proud of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the People

This restaurant’s recognition is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this gastronomic triumph.